2015-07-17 09:47:16 | pauls writes:

Ebay item 7/17/15
www.ebay.com/itm/252028539660
Current bid US $8,766 reserve not met 3 bids 5 days left in auction. 21k miles.

Sellers description:
Older restoration in good driving condition. Starts and runs well. Garaged and occasionally driven during summers and stored indoors during winters. To my knowledge there is no significant body or undercarriage rust (photo). Manual steering requires some arm muscle for parking. Has developed a slow ATF gasket leak (1 - 2 pints per year). All gauges and switches work except the fuel level gauges, tachometer, and windshield wiper (original motor dis-connected). Upper body paintwork (black) is more recent and still presents well. Lower body paint (purple) is older and shows chips, a couple through-buffing spots, and some paint bubbling appearing most notably on a 2"x 3" area in the lower front passenger's door (photo) and smaller area in the lower back driver's side door. Chrome-work generally in good condition for it's age but with some scuffing and pitting. Clearance is lower than normal at the skid plate located under the floor beneath the passenger's side front door. Scuffing on the skid plate can occur on sharply sloped driveway aprons and the like, however I've not found it to a frequent or serious issue. Odometer reads 21629; actual mileage is unknown. Of all the vintage cars I've owned this one draws the most thumbs-up.

Original factory features include manual sunroof (still works well and seals watertight), driving lights and fog lights, and dual gas tanks with dash mounted switch-over. A number of modifications have been made by the previous long-time owner. These include installation of a rebuilt 350 engine and automatic transmission (from '89 or '90 Chevy truck); Holley fuel injection; new fuel and brake lines; Lokar shifter; dual Borla exhaust; Dayton knock-off wire wheels with low profile tires; body work and painting including rear skirts, flares and pin stripping; hood louvers; cats-eyes; VintageAir R-22 A/C (not working); WireWorks component wiring and fusebox; GM steering column; seat belts, gauges; Alpine CD, electric adjustable front seats (maybe out of an 80's Continental?) and seat, door, and headliner re-upholstery.

During my ownership I have had significant brake work done (re-built Bendix pump, re-built master cylinder, new reservoir, and skid plate installed to protect the Bendix unit); re-built pitman; had the top, pillars, bonnet and upper fenders prepped, primed and re-painted black (still very presentable) to eliminate previous owner's air-brush script art-work; had windows repaired and tinted; replaced both rear Dayton wheels (one having been bumped out of round) and all four Goodyear tires; added new Billet mirrors and brake light; had new carpeting and sunroof headliner installed; replaced fuel tank switch-over valve and associated lines. When I got the car almost all of the interior dashboard and trim woodwork was in a sad state and beyond re-finishing. I have a well outfitted woodworking shop so using the original pieces as templates I constructed and installed new dashboard and window trim pieces from solid white oak. At that time I also cleaned up much of the under-dash wiring and replaced most of the older gauges with new Autometer gauges. More recently I have had the fuel pump replaced and had major tune-up work done.

I have owned the car since early 2006. I picked it up from the previous long-time owner near Denver, Colorado. As I recall he told me he bought it in New Mexico sometime in the 60's. He last had major restoration work completed in the early 90's. I have thoroughly enjoyed the car but the time has come for a new owner. If you're looking for a trailer queen this is not it. But if you are looking for a fun "driver car" this may be it. Issues worthy of attention from a new owner would be: addressing the ATF gasket leak; getting the fuel gauges to work properly; A/C repair/replacement if deemed worthy.

A note of explanation about the VIN. This vehicle predates the VIN system. Instead, the chassis number and the original engine number are stamped into the manufacturer's nameplate affixed to the cowl beneath the bonnet. Sometime in the past that original engine number was registered as the VIN. I was not allowed to change that number to the chassis number (a more logical choice in my opinion) when I registered the vehicle in Wisconsin. However despite the original engine being long gone it's number is stamped into the vehicle's nameplate for verification purposes.

2015-07-25 11:55:08 | pauls writes:

Car returns to ebay 7/25/15
www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Other-/252036944386
Opening bid US $8,000 reserve not met no bids 6 days left in auction.

Previous auction ended at $10,457 after 12 bids.